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Wooden shoes, also known as clogs, are a type of footwear made primarily from wood. They have been worn in various cultures worldwide for centuries and are associated with traditional costumes in areas such as the Netherlands, Spain, and Sweden. But what exactly are wooden shoes called? Here is a deep dive into the many names and terminology associated with this unique type of footwear.
Wooden shoes go by many different names, depending on the country and language. Some of the most common terms include clogs as the most widely used English name for wooden shoes. This term can refer to both traditional wooden shoes and more modern, industrial styles. Sabots is the French word for wooden shoes, common in areas of France and French-speaking countries. Klompen is the Dutch name for wooden shoes, used especially to describe traditional Dutch clogs. Trumaskor is the Swedish name for clogs, referring to the traditional wooden shoes of Sweden. Zoccos is the name used for wooden shoes traditionally worn in Northern Spain, while Galochas is the Spanish name for wooden shoes worn in other parts of Spain. Pattens is sometimes used in English to refer to wooden soles or overshoes worn to elevate the foot above mud or dirt.
In summary, while “clogs” is the most common all-encompassing English term, traditional wooden shoes go by many names worldwide tied to regional heritage and language.

Beyond naming conventions, it’s also helpful to understand the key features that characterize different wooden shoe styles and designs. Traditional wooden clogs are made from a solid piece of wood for the sole/base and often have an upper part made of leather. Styles with full wooden upper are also common. They have outer soles angled slightly upward from heel to toe and commonly have decorative carvings and painted motifs.
Industrial wooden clogs are made with wood sole but have heavy metal reinforcements used as protective work shoes, especially before modern safety shoes. They often have perforations for ventilation and less decoration compared to traditional styles.
Wooden soles/pattens are not fully enclosed shoes, mainly just wooden soles worn over normal shoes to elevate the foot and provide protection from mud/dirt. They attach to shoes with leather straps or rings.
Wooden sandals are sandal-like wooden shoes with toe post between first two toes secured to foot with straps over tops of feet. They allow more air circulation compared to enclosed clogs.
Platform wooden clogs are a fashion-forward modern style with very thick wooden sole to add height. They have a more stylized leather upper with ankle strap popularized by Swedish Hasbeens and other brands.
By understanding the design nuances and styles associated with wooden shoes, it becomes easier to identify the characteristics that define this traditional type of footwear in its many cultural incarnations.

Wooden shoes have a very long and storied history spanning many centuries. The earliest known wooden shoes date back to the 12th century BCE in Northern Europe, when wood was plentiful and cheaper than leather. Wooden sole pattens became popular throughout the Roman Empire as a way to keep feet dry and elevated. In the Middle Ages, wooden shoes spread through peasant communities in Northern Europe for affordability and availability of materials. By the 1600s, sabots became widely worn by French peasants and farmers, becoming a symbol of poverty and the working class. During the Industrial Revolution, clogs became daily work shoes in factories due to their affordability and suitability for wet conditions. In the 19th Century, traditional hand-carved wooden shoes were a core part of regional costumes in the Netherlands, Scandinavia and Spain. By the 20th Century, wooden shoes began a decline as modern footwear became more widely available, but remained in use for specialized work applications.
In summary, wooden clogs have hundreds of years of history spanning work wear, cultural identity, and stylistic status. Their origins are rooted in affordability, availability, and functionality – properties that continued to define their place in society through modern times.
For many centuries, wooden clogs were individually hand-carved by skilled craftspeople using traditional production methods. Willow and alder were preferred materials in Europe for their softness, though lighter woods like pine could also be used. Wood was harvested from forests and sawmills provided pre-cut blocks. The wood needed to be partially dried and seasoned before carving.
The basic sole shape was carved from a single block of wood using chisels, axes, and knives. The sole was carved with the upper part of the tip angled slightly upward and a hollow for the foot carved into the sole. Grooves were added for attaching leather upper parts. Intricate designs and motifs were then carved on the outer sides and top edges in regional styles – geometric patterns in Holland and leaves and flowers in Sweden. Paint or colored varnish was applied to highlight the carved designs.
Leather uppers were shaped and nailed to the wooden sole, with linen strips helping bind the leather to the wood. Complete shoes were polished using wax or varnish. The shoes were usually mass produced in whole sizes and ready for fittings, with custom shaping done during fitting to accommodate the uniqueness of each foot. This hand production process imbued traditional wooden shoes with distinctive regional styles and personalized fits suited to the wearer.
Wooden shoe styles, decoration, and production varied greatly by country and region across Europe. Dutch clogs originated in the Middle Ages and became ubiquitous by the 1600s. They were carved from willow due to its water resistance and often had leather fronts over tops of feet. They featured rich decorative painted flowers and regional motifs and were worn as everyday shoes by all social classes. Swedish Träskor were simpler, coarser wooden shoes of pine or alder with braided leather or fabric uppers and painted leaves, flowers and geometric patterns. They were worn by farmers, fishers and the rural working class.
In Spain, Zoccos and Galochas were worn in northern regions and made from poplar or willow wood. They featured angled tips and lace-up leather uppers with painted or inlaid motifs and designs. They were associated with farmers and mountain dwellers. French Sabots were iconic as the shoes of peasant farmers and country workers. They were put together more roughly using cheaper softwoods with leather uppers over the instep and toes. They were known for producing a “clip-clop” sound when worn.
The unique culture and environment of each country produced distinctive wooden shoe styles still associated with traditional regional dress.
Starting in the 1800s, the use of wooden shoes evolved from traditional peasant footwear into industrial work clogs. This new style adapted traditional wooden soles for factory conditions, originating in Northern England among textile workers in the 1840s. They were designed with metal toe caps and reinforcing nails/plates to improve durability, and ventilation holes were added to improve breathability in hot factories. Industrial clogs took over from traditional clogs as everyday work shoes in industrial towns as they were mass manufactured using machinery, losing the individual crafting of traditional clogs. They were used extensively in industries like mining, textiles, and manufacturing, even persisting after modern work boots were available due to familiarity. The industrial clog became closely associated with factory work conditions and blue collar labor activism.
The industrial clog emerged as an evolution of the traditional wooden shoe made to suit modern factory work. Though lacking artisan detailing, it played an important role in working class life and labor culture.
As modern footwear became more widely available by the early 20th century, the use of wooden shoes began to decline in most parts of the world. However, they persisted in some niche contexts such as clog dancing, where carved soles with tapping plates became part of the emerging dance style. They continued to be used in messy work settings like food service and healthcare for their protective qualities. Individual craftspeople kept the tradition of hand carving wooden clogs alive for enthusiasts, even as mass production declined. In parts of Europe, wooden clogs remained part of traditional regional dress and cultural identity. They adapted to orthopedic footwear with custom supports and shaping for medical uses. Wooden clogs also persisted as gardening shoes that could get muddy and wet. Additionally, they were used in historical theater productions and cultural reenactments.
So while no longer everyday modern wear, wooden shoes lived on in certain niches where their unique properties still provided value, allowing them to remain associated with cultural traditions.
More recently, wooden clogs have seen a revival in popularity driven by both nostalgia and fashion. Interest in vintage workwear and dress has created demand for old industrial clogs for their vintage appeal. Chunky platform clogs emerged as a retro callback to 1970s style. Hand carved clogs with folk motifs appeal as artisanal footwear. Wood and natural materials resonate with eco-conscious consumers who value sustainability.
Swedish Hasbeens played a key role by repopularizing platform clogs beginning in the 1970s. The wide range of traditional options from floral painted Dutch clogs to solid Swedish work styles attracts collectors and enthusiasts. The cool retro vibe and artisanal appeal of wooden clogs has led to newfound popularity with consumers looking for authenticity and statement style.
While largely a niche product today, wooden clogs are still produced using both historic and modern techniques. Some fully hand carved clogs are still made using traditional tools and craft for those seeking that artisanal appeal. However, many soles are pre-cut by CNC machines for consistency in sizing. Power tools like sanders, grinders and rotary tools help speed up decorative processes. There is also some partial machine production, with components like leather uppers being machine produced for efficiency while the soles remain handmade.
Sustainable wood sourcing and forestry practices ensure providers can access responsibly harvested materials. There is still an emphasis on custom final adjustments to fit the wearer’s feet properly. Production remains small and specialized rather than mass scale. While processes are partially modernized, many producers focus on hand finishing like painting, sealing, and polishing to deliver quality. This mix of traditional skill, modern process, and sustainable material supplies allows wooden shoe producers to maintain quality and responsible practices.
There are a number of companies today keeping wooden clog production alive through small batch manufacturing. Some notable brands include:
Swedish Hasbeens, famous for 1970s revival of wooden platform clogs known for bold colors and chunky silhouette. Birkenstock, producing contoured wooden soled clogs with suede upper based on their original cork designs. Draxtor from Spain, creating handmade wooden clogs with traditional Catalan styling and motifs. Mozo Shoes based in Colorado, producing wooden soled clogs designed for food service and hospitality work. DeBoos specializing in recreations of intricately decorated, hand-carved Dutch clogs. And South Korean company Baek Clogs crafting modern engineered wooden clogs with traditional namaksin motifs.
While small in production scale, these brands and local artisans are preserving the heritage wooden shoe making skills still valued today.
For those interested in purchasing some wooden clogs, it’s recommended to try on different styles in person, since many run in whole sizes. Consider ordering custom sizing for an optimal comfort fit tailored to your feet. Think about your intended occasion – everyday styles tend to be more durable while fashion clogs feature more delicate materials. Take time to evaluate construction quality and responsible use of eco-friendly woods. Learn about a brand’s heritage and process to understand their craftsmanship. Taking this time to consider fit, use, materials, and brand philosophies will help identify the ideal pair of wooden clogs for individual needs and style.
Q: Are wooden clogs comfortable to wear?
A: Properly fitted wooden clogs can be very comfortable, thanks to the anatomical shaping and ability to mold to feet over time. New wearers need an adjustment period to break-in the wood.
Q: What are the main benefits of wooden clogs?
A: Benefits include durability, water resistance, slip resistance, and breathability from wood’s natural properties. The stable supportive platforms are also beneficial orthopedically.
Q: Should wooden clogs be worn with or without socks?
A: Most types of wooden clogs are designed to be worn without socks to maximize the breathability and molding of the wood to feet. However, socks can provide extra warmth in cold weather.
Q: How long do wooden clogs typically last with regular wear?
A: With proper care like re-varnishing, wooden clogs can last 5-10 years or longer. The soles and leather uppers will need occasional repairs over time.
Wooden clogs have a storied history and regional diversity that gives them a special place in traditional dress and footwear heritage. Beyond the rustic stereotypes, they demonstrate impressive craftsmanship and practical design. Their durability, comfort and natural appeal has allowed them to persist even in the modern era. While once ubiquitous work shoes, they are now a niche product sought by enthusiasts who appreciate their nostalgic quality and statement style. By learning about the varied terminology, cultural styles and production methods, it becomes easy to see why this iconic footwear has endured across centuries, adapted over time, and continues to inspire artisanal devotion today.
If you’re building a table, working on a vanity or applying the final touches to any other woodworking project, your thoughts are likely to be turning towards the finish you’re going to apply when it’s done.
Specifically, you might be considering an oil and polyurethane combination to bring out the wood while also protecting it from water and scratches – but is this a viable option?
To help you understand whether this works and how to do it, in this post, we answer the question, can I apply polyurethane over an oil finish?
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When you’re coming to the end of any woodworking project, one of the last things you’ll have to do is apply the finish.
In woodworking, finishes have two equally important roles – to enhance the appearance of the wood and to protect it against water, mold, wood-eating insects and marks left by dirty hands.
Many newbies to woodworking assume that when it comes to finishes, the options are basically limited to paint or varnish, but there’s a lot more to it than this.
To provide a beautiful yet protective coat, you can also consider oils – and oils can be used in combination with varnishes to provide the wood with even more protection.
Oils can be applied to wood to bring out the natural colors, and they also protect the wood from the inside by preventing it from drying out.
Varnishes, on the other hand, can provide a protective outer layer. However, “varnish” isn’t a product in itself, and there are several options for varnishes, including, for example, lacquer.
Polyurethane is another substance that can be used as a varnish, and the theory is that when combined with an attractive oil, you can give your project a finish that is both protective and aesthetically pleasing.
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The question is, then, does this work in practice?
The answer is that it does, but it depends on the oil you use – so let’s look at this now.

There is a whole range of oils that can be used as a finish on wood, and broadly speaking, they can be divided into two types – drying oils and non-drying oils.
At the most basic level, drying oils are those that dry hard and cure, forming a solid film when exposed to the oxygen in the air.
Examples of drying oils are tung oil (or China wood oil, which comes from the nut of the tung tree), linseed oil and walnut oil.
Non-drying oils, on the other hand, are oils that will never fully dry or cure into a solid film, however much time they are given.
Examples of non-drying oils include olive oil, palm oil and hazelnut oil.
Since drying oils cure into a solid surface, it is possible to then apply polyurethane over the top since it has something to bind to.
However, because non-drying oils will never cure in this way, polyurethane can’t be applied over the top since there is no solid surface for it to stick to.

Now we understand that whether you can apply polyurethane over oil depends on whether the oil you are using is a drying or non-drying oil, your next question is likely to be, how do you know if a particular oil is drying or non-drying?
To answer that, now we need to do the science bit.
Oils are hydrocarbons, which means they consist entirely of hydrogen and carbon atoms, and they can be saturated or unsaturated
Saturated oils contain only single bonds – and as a result, we say they are saturated with hydrogen.
Unsaturated, on the other hand, also contain double or triple bonds between carbon atoms – and the more double or triple bonds there are, the more unsaturated the oil is said to be.
We can test how unsaturated and oil is by adding iodine, and the reaction to iodine gives us the so-called iodine number of an oil.
As a rule, oils with an iodine number below 115 are considered non-drying oils while those above 115 are considered drying oils.
Here’s a table of many common oils along with their iodine numbers.
| Canola oil | 110 – 126 |
| Castor oil | 81 – 91 |
| Coconut oil | 6 – 11 |
| Cod liver oil | 148 – 183 |
| Corn oil | 107 – 128 |
| Cottonseed oil | 100 – 115 |
| Fish oil | 190 – 205 |
| Grape seed oil | 94 – 157 |
| Hazelnut oil | 83 – 90 |
| Jojoba oil | 80 – 85 |
| Kapok seed oil | 86 – 110 |
| Linseed oil | 170 – 204 |
| Olive oil | 75 – 94 |
| Oiticica oil | 139 – 185 |
| Palm kernel oil | 14 – 21 |
| Palm oil | 49 – 55 |
| Peanut oil | 82 – 107 |
| Pecan oil | 77 – 106 |
| Pistachio oil | 86 – 98 |
| Poppyseed oil | 140 – 158 |
| Rapeseed oil | 94 – 120 |
| Rice bran oil | 99 – 108 |
| Safflower oil | 135 – 150 |
| Sesame oil | 100 – 120 |
| Sunflower oil | 110 – 145 |
| Soybean oil | 120 – 139 |
| Tung oil | 160 – 175 |
| Walnut oil | 132 – 162 |
| Wheat germ oil | 115 – 128 |
So now we know about which oils can and can’t be used with polyurethane, how should you go about applying such a finish? Here’s how to do it.

The first step is to choose the oil you want to use – and when choosing, you need to make sure it is a drying oil. Then, once you have chosen your oil, you need to apply it to the wood in an even coat.
Once applied, the oil will seep into the wood, and any excess should be wiped off.

After applying your oil to the wood, you need to let the oil dry and cure properly before applying the polyurethane.
The amount of time it takes for this to happen will depend on factors such as the temperature, humidity and wind conditions where you live, but it will take at least three days – and to be safe, if you can wait, it’s best to give it as long as a week.

When the oil has cured, you then need to give the surface a light sanding.
This is because one of the main problems people discover when trying to apply polyurethane over oil is that the polyurethane has trouble adhering to the surface.
Sanding the surface will resolve this issue since it will give the polyurethane a slightly rough surface to fix itself too.
However, you don’t want to sand it too vigorously or too deeply or it will spoil the appearance of the wood.
For best results, you should use very fine grit sandpaper – around 220-grit or 320-grit will be about right.

Next, you should apply a thin coat of polyurethane. To achieve this, it’s best to thin the polyurethane before applying it. This can be achieved by mixing two parts polyurethane with one part mineral spirit.
Alternatively, you can buy a polyurethane product that is pre-thinned.
When the polyurethane is ready, apply it evenly to the wood with a brush and leave it to dry.

Once the polyurethane layer is dry, you can then apply a second and even a third coat.
The important thing to remember is that you should sand each coat to provide a slightly rough surface for the next coat to adhere to.

Since polyurethane isn’t self-levelling, you’ll also need to sand it lightly once the final coat has dried. This will help give you a smooth, flat surface.
And once this is finished, the job is done.
What about other products such as Danish oil or Tru-Oil? Can you apply a polyurethane coat over these?
The thing to understand about products like these is that they are not just oil but rather mixtures of oil and varnish that can be used alone to finish a wood surface.
When it comes to Danish oil, there is no set recipe, and each manufacturer creates its own blend.
However, this usually consists of two parts varnish and one part oil, and with a formula like this, if it is left to dry, it will be able to hold a coat of polyurethane just the same as any drying oil would.
Tru-Oil is a similar product that contains oil and varnish, and just like Danish oil, it will be able to hold a coat of polyurethane.
Adding one or more coats of polyurethane to finishes like Danish oil or Tru-Oil will give the final finish an extra layer of protection – just make sure you sand each layer as you apply them, as explained above.
As we’ve seen, polyurethane can be combined with oils, as long as the oil in question is a drying oil.
The key to success is to leave the oil to dry and cure so it presents a hard surface for the polyurethane to bind to – and an important tip is to sand each layer before you apply the next to help each layer adhere more firmly to the layer below.

For those who utilize walking sticks, canes, hiking poles, or other wooden mobility aids, navigating airport security and metal detectors can seem daunting. Can you actually bring your wooden stick on a commercial passenger airplane in the cabin with you? Or will it need to be checked as luggage? Rules and restrictions around items permitted on aircraft have become increasingly stringent, leaving many travelers unsure about transporting their necessary sticks by air.
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This detailed guide will examine all aspects of bringing wooden sticks aboard flights as carry-on items. We’ll outline the types of sticks permitted, important size limitations, what to expect during airport screening processes, policies among different airlines, steps for getting sticks successfully to your gate, considerations for checking them as luggage, and address frequently asked questions from confused travelers. By understanding airline and TSA policies around wooden sticks, you can feel confident knowing how to transport your needed mobility aids stress-free on your next flight.
The first criteria in determining if your wooden stick can come onboard the cabin is its intended purpose and design. In general, the following types of wood-based mobility aids and recreational sticks are permitted as carry-on items:
These are straight wooden canes used for stability and support when walking due to injury, age, or medical conditions affecting balance and mobility. They range from simple, inexpensive wooden sticks to intricately carved and decorated walking canes. Both types are permitted provided length and dimension guidelines are followed.
Collapsible poles constructed of aluminum, carbon fiber, plastic or light wood designed to improve stability and safety when hiking over rough terrain. They are made of materials that are durable yet lightweight. Telescoping mechanisms allow them to collapse to meet airline size requirements.
Taller wooden staffs or sticks used when wading in streams, rivers or other bodies of water to maintain balance. Helpful for serious hikers or anglers. Must be able to collapse or break down to appropriate size limits to be allowed onboard.
Compact, extensible sticks used to mount cameras farther away to take self-portraits or group pictures. They are very popular with travelers and tourists but have specific rules for use inflight.
Rolling walkers or Zimmer frames with four legs and handles used by the elderly or disabled for walking support and balance. Often fold up to fit air travel carry-on size guidelines.
Any staff designed as a legitimate mobility or stability aid is permitted. Just be sure it meets all other requirements and is not overly elaborate or decorative in a way that could raise security concerns.
While functional walking aids are allowed on flights, there are certain types of sticks that would be prohibited under air travel rules:
Scrutinize your stick closely and opt for a standard design focused purely on walking support, not combat or decoration. And be sure no concerning modifications or additions have been made. This gives you the best chance of getting it past airport security checkpoints smoothly.
In addition to usage and design, whether or not your stick is permitted onboard also depends significantly on its physical size and dimensions:
The maximum length for any carry-on item, including mobility aids, is 45 inches or 115 cm in total. This ensures the item can fit inside airport screening equipment and within aircraft cabins. Any stick longer than 45 inches will need to be checked at your departure gate rather than carried onboard. Measure your extended stick carefully beforehand.
While there is no single diameter or width limitation, your stick must still fit comfortably in the airplane’s overhead bins or underseat spaces. Overly wide items that cannot be easily stowed will be gate checked. As a general rule, keep sticks under 2 inches diameter.
Trekking poles, selfie sticks and other aids with foldable or telescoping mechanisms must collapse to the 45 inch length for X-ray machines and cabin storage. Ensure they contract small enough.
Heavier hardwood sticks could present safety issues and many airlines restrict carry-on weights to 17-22 lbs. Anything exceptionally heavy runs the risk of being checked at the gate rather than permitted as carry-on.
Only 1-2 sticks per passenger are typically permitted in cabins. Bringing an excessive number could appear suspicious and prompt confiscation. Stick to what is reasonably needed for mobility.
Meeting size limits and avoiding overpacking numerous sticks gives you the best shot at bringing your aids onboard rather than being forced to check them. Be prepared to check overly large sticks at your departure gate when necessary.
Policies around permitted stick sizes and quantities can vary slightly between airlines. Here are the standard carry-on allowances:
Be sure to check your specific airline’s rules if still uncertain. But the standard carry-on rules apply pretty universally.
The biggest hurdle to clear in getting your stick onboard is clearing airport security successfully. Here’s a rundown of what to expect going through screening:
You will need to place your stick directly on the conveyor belt to pass through the X-ray scanner when you reach the front of the security line. Do not place it in a bin or bag. Removing all items from bags allows the most visibility.
Advise the TSA officer monitoring the X-ray machine that you have a walking stick, cane or mobility pole to be screened so they know to watch for it. This helps them correctly identify it amidst other items.
Expect that you will be directed to additional inspections beyond the X-ray such as a hand-swab of your stick for traces of explosive materials, a request to unroll hiking poles, or a physical bag search. These extra checks are standard protocol for sticks and staves to get cleared.
Part of the inspection may involve you demonstrating your stick’s legitimate use as a mobility or stability aid, such as by walking with a cane. This helps officers confirm its true purpose is permitted.
Sticks may be swabbed with cloths that then go into Explosives Trace Detection scanners looking for any residue of dangerous materials. This is common for many items.
The key is remaining calm and cooperative as officers conduct necessary screening. The extra diligence is for overall flight safety. With patience, you and your stick should be cleared for carry-on once verified not a threat.
While an involved process, clearing security simply takes some additional time and understanding. If you know what to expect going in, the screening should go smoothly.
For elderly passengers or those with disabilities requiring walking sticks or other aids, navigating airport security poses additional challenges:
Proper planning and speaking up on what accommodation you need makes clearing security much less troublesome.
If your stick exceeds 45 inches in length or does not meet carry-on requirements due to size or weight, you will need to check it at your departure gate to be transported in the aircraft’s cargo hold. Here are tips for getting sticks and mobility aids successfully checked:
Bubble wrap, cardboard tubes, or PVC/plastic cases help avoid damage from bumps and jostling of checked baggage handling.
Print out tags marking your stick or aide as “FRAGILE” or “MOBILITY DEVICE” to alert handlers.
Inform gate agents you need to check a walking stick, cane or mobility aide so they properly tag it to return at baggage claim.
Depending on airline rules and your stick’s dimensions, additional oversize baggage fees may apply when forced to check it.
Checking at your departure gate when possible reduces risks of tarmac conveyor damage compared to early check counters.
Do not leave checked sticks sitting unclaimed for long stretches, exposeing them to mishandling or accidental loss.
Take all precautions to minimize damage, but understand checking more fragile mobility aids has inherent risks of loss or breakage. If permitted onboard as carry-on, always take that option first.
When traveling overseas, be aware that rules and scrutiny around mobility aids can vary by airport and country. Some tips for international travels:
Traveling with mobility aids abroad adds further complications. Stay flexible and understand local laws can impact what items are allowed into country.
To maximize your chances of getting walking sticks and canes successfully through airport screenings, go with trusted models known to meet carry-on size limits and pass inspections:
Collapsible travel canes from Travelon and other brands specifically designed for flying. They shrink to under 26 inches stored.
Retract to only 12 inches. Include wrist straps and rubber tips. Great for stability assistance inflight.
Extend up to 53 inches but contract to 26 inches for easy packing and X-rays. Made of aircraft grade aluminum.
Convert from two separate poles to single staff. Easily fits in overhead bins at just 15.5 inches collapsed.
Ideal for seniors with balance/mobility issues. Retracts to under 15 inches stored but rigid up to 39 when fully extended.
Built of durable cork and extends from 25 to 53 inches. Weighs only 8.8 ounces for easy transport.
The more closely a stick resembles common travel-friendly designs versus elaborate staffs or sticks, the better chance it has of passing inspection. Select airport-safe models whenever possible.
With the proper understanding of regulations, necessary walking sticks and aids can be transported by air travel without major hassle. Just allocate enough time for screenings and plan ahead based on your specific stick’s features. Safe travels with your necessary mobility assistance!
The most common size limitations are: 45 inch maximum length, 2 inch diameter maximum, and an overall ability to fit in overhead bins or under seats. Travel-specific collapsible sticks keep these rules in mind.
A doctor’s note is not required by TSA regulations but can be helpful if there are questions about your need for a mobility aid. Having a prescription, letter from a doctor or medical paperwork can help demonstrate legitimate medical necessity.
Generally only 1-2 sticks per passenger are permitted in cabins. Bringing a large collection for an entire group risks items being gate checked or confiscated if seeming excessive for personal needs. Stick to what you individually require for aid.
If a mobility aid is damaged or lost when forced to check it at the departure gate, immediately file a claim report with the airline. Airlines are liable for damage to special assistive devices and will repair, replace or compensate you accordingly.
International airport screening can be more extensive and rules on permitted mobility aids can vary. Research specific airport policies at your destination, allow extra time and have paperwork to explain medical needs. There is risk aids could be confiscated by customs in some countries.
While permitted as carry on, selfie sticks cannot be actively used inflight as they could be perceived as weapons. Stow photographic sticks in your bags once past security and refrain from extending until you’ve reached your destination.
Use thick padding like bubble wrap or cardboard around the stick plus a hard case or pipe if possible when forced to check it. Make sure it’s prominently labeled “fragile” to alert baggage handlers to be gentle. Inspect immediately upon arrival.
No, all carry on items, including mobility aids, must pass through the security X-ray machine. Hand-carrying avoids scanning and is not permitted. But you can request assistance getting it on/off the belt due to disabilities.
For use during moments inflight when you are not relying on your stick, the best place to securely store it is either in the overhead bin to avoid cabin foot traffic or between your legs if in a bulkhead or exit row seat. Never place it in the aisle.
If your stick is damaged at the airport, notify airline staff immediately to file a claim and arrange replacements or compensation. Some airports have mobile kits with loaner sticks you can borrow. Or you may need to purchase an inexpensive replacement from an airport shop in the interim.
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Two Guys Bow Ties
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Two Guys Bow Ties makes hand made wooden bow ties out of exotic planks of hardwood. Some of planks that we use are zebrawood, Oak, Maple, Bamboo, and many more. If you would like to see a wooden bow tie made out of a different plank of wood just give a shout and we will do our best to make you one. We make bow ties out of just about any type of wood such as reclaimed flooring, retired basketball courts, old tables, chairs. You name and we can probably make a really awesome looking bow tie out of it.

Showing reviews 1-10 of 21 | Next
This is the bow tie I used for both my college graduation and when I proposed to my girlfriend! Always get random compliments from people. Can’t wait to buy more bow ties
This bowtie is stylish and surprisingly comfortable to wear. When i first heard of a wooden bowtie i thought why would anyine want to wear that? That has to hurt. But it doesn’t and feela just like any normal bowtie. Live it!
I love this bow tie! The craftsmanship is superior! Also the look of it is so cool and unique!
Exceptional quality and workmanship, will be keeping my brother well stocked!
I love this tie. I gave it to my 30-something son for Christmas this year and he thought it was really awesome. The bow tie is unique and the design is really
classy. Definitely a great conversation piece.
These bowties are simply amazing and so well crafted. Very unique and will undoubtedly be a great conversation piece. My son was elated to receive it as a Christmas gift
I ordered this bow tie for my daughter’s grandfather who wears bow ties religiously and it is PERFECT! The Earl engraving was pristine with the polka dot. The edges are tapered down so it’s not just a chunk of wood. The wood is smooth and the fabric is clean, beautiful, and neatly attached. It arrived in a timely manner in a great magnetic close box, so presentation is fantastic. It’s wonderful and he’s going to love it!
We originally saw the wooden bow ties on Shark Tank and were immediately interested. My son wears bow ties regularly and was so excited to receive his first wooden one just in time for homecoming. Prompt delivery and the packaging was wonderful. The bow tie was light weight, comfortable and very stylish. We are very happy with the product and will be purchasing again. Thanks!
I ordered one of the bow ties when they first were introduced and was impressed with the product so i ordered earl bow tie and once again an outstanding product!
I haven’t officially worn these yet, as they are for my wedding, but just handling them and trying it on, they look great and look like great quality. Plus, they arrived very quickly. I expected them to take much longer. I am very happy with my purchase thus far!
Showing reviews 1-10 of 21 | Next