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If you’re building a table, working on a vanity or applying the final touches to any other woodworking project, your thoughts are likely to be turning towards the finish you’re going to apply when it’s done.
Specifically, you might be considering an oil and polyurethane combination to bring out the wood while also protecting it from water and scratches – but is this a viable option?
To help you understand whether this works and how to do it, in this post, we answer the question, can I apply polyurethane over an oil finish?
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When you’re coming to the end of any woodworking project, one of the last things you’ll have to do is apply the finish.
In woodworking, finishes have two equally important roles – to enhance the appearance of the wood and to protect it against water, mold, wood-eating insects and marks left by dirty hands.
Many newbies to woodworking assume that when it comes to finishes, the options are basically limited to paint or varnish, but there’s a lot more to it than this.
To provide a beautiful yet protective coat, you can also consider oils – and oils can be used in combination with varnishes to provide the wood with even more protection.
Oils can be applied to wood to bring out the natural colors, and they also protect the wood from the inside by preventing it from drying out.
Varnishes, on the other hand, can provide a protective outer layer. However, “varnish” isn’t a product in itself, and there are several options for varnishes, including, for example, lacquer.
Polyurethane is another substance that can be used as a varnish, and the theory is that when combined with an attractive oil, you can give your project a finish that is both protective and aesthetically pleasing.
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The question is, then, does this work in practice?
The answer is that it does, but it depends on the oil you use – so let’s look at this now.

There is a whole range of oils that can be used as a finish on wood, and broadly speaking, they can be divided into two types – drying oils and non-drying oils.
At the most basic level, drying oils are those that dry hard and cure, forming a solid film when exposed to the oxygen in the air.
Examples of drying oils are tung oil (or China wood oil, which comes from the nut of the tung tree), linseed oil and walnut oil.
Non-drying oils, on the other hand, are oils that will never fully dry or cure into a solid film, however much time they are given.
Examples of non-drying oils include olive oil, palm oil and hazelnut oil.
Since drying oils cure into a solid surface, it is possible to then apply polyurethane over the top since it has something to bind to.
However, because non-drying oils will never cure in this way, polyurethane can’t be applied over the top since there is no solid surface for it to stick to.

Now we understand that whether you can apply polyurethane over oil depends on whether the oil you are using is a drying or non-drying oil, your next question is likely to be, how do you know if a particular oil is drying or non-drying?
To answer that, now we need to do the science bit.
Oils are hydrocarbons, which means they consist entirely of hydrogen and carbon atoms, and they can be saturated or unsaturated
Saturated oils contain only single bonds – and as a result, we say they are saturated with hydrogen.
Unsaturated, on the other hand, also contain double or triple bonds between carbon atoms – and the more double or triple bonds there are, the more unsaturated the oil is said to be.
We can test how unsaturated and oil is by adding iodine, and the reaction to iodine gives us the so-called iodine number of an oil.
As a rule, oils with an iodine number below 115 are considered non-drying oils while those above 115 are considered drying oils.
Here’s a table of many common oils along with their iodine numbers.
| Canola oil | 110 – 126 |
| Castor oil | 81 – 91 |
| Coconut oil | 6 – 11 |
| Cod liver oil | 148 – 183 |
| Corn oil | 107 – 128 |
| Cottonseed oil | 100 – 115 |
| Fish oil | 190 – 205 |
| Grape seed oil | 94 – 157 |
| Hazelnut oil | 83 – 90 |
| Jojoba oil | 80 – 85 |
| Kapok seed oil | 86 – 110 |
| Linseed oil | 170 – 204 |
| Olive oil | 75 – 94 |
| Oiticica oil | 139 – 185 |
| Palm kernel oil | 14 – 21 |
| Palm oil | 49 – 55 |
| Peanut oil | 82 – 107 |
| Pecan oil | 77 – 106 |
| Pistachio oil | 86 – 98 |
| Poppyseed oil | 140 – 158 |
| Rapeseed oil | 94 – 120 |
| Rice bran oil | 99 – 108 |
| Safflower oil | 135 – 150 |
| Sesame oil | 100 – 120 |
| Sunflower oil | 110 – 145 |
| Soybean oil | 120 – 139 |
| Tung oil | 160 – 175 |
| Walnut oil | 132 – 162 |
| Wheat germ oil | 115 – 128 |
So now we know about which oils can and can’t be used with polyurethane, how should you go about applying such a finish? Here’s how to do it.

The first step is to choose the oil you want to use – and when choosing, you need to make sure it is a drying oil. Then, once you have chosen your oil, you need to apply it to the wood in an even coat.
Once applied, the oil will seep into the wood, and any excess should be wiped off.

After applying your oil to the wood, you need to let the oil dry and cure properly before applying the polyurethane.
The amount of time it takes for this to happen will depend on factors such as the temperature, humidity and wind conditions where you live, but it will take at least three days – and to be safe, if you can wait, it’s best to give it as long as a week.

When the oil has cured, you then need to give the surface a light sanding.
This is because one of the main problems people discover when trying to apply polyurethane over oil is that the polyurethane has trouble adhering to the surface.
Sanding the surface will resolve this issue since it will give the polyurethane a slightly rough surface to fix itself too.
However, you don’t want to sand it too vigorously or too deeply or it will spoil the appearance of the wood.
For best results, you should use very fine grit sandpaper – around 220-grit or 320-grit will be about right.

Next, you should apply a thin coat of polyurethane. To achieve this, it’s best to thin the polyurethane before applying it. This can be achieved by mixing two parts polyurethane with one part mineral spirit.
Alternatively, you can buy a polyurethane product that is pre-thinned.
When the polyurethane is ready, apply it evenly to the wood with a brush and leave it to dry.

Once the polyurethane layer is dry, you can then apply a second and even a third coat.
The important thing to remember is that you should sand each coat to provide a slightly rough surface for the next coat to adhere to.

Since polyurethane isn’t self-levelling, you’ll also need to sand it lightly once the final coat has dried. This will help give you a smooth, flat surface.
And once this is finished, the job is done.
What about other products such as Danish oil or Tru-Oil? Can you apply a polyurethane coat over these?
The thing to understand about products like these is that they are not just oil but rather mixtures of oil and varnish that can be used alone to finish a wood surface.
When it comes to Danish oil, there is no set recipe, and each manufacturer creates its own blend.
However, this usually consists of two parts varnish and one part oil, and with a formula like this, if it is left to dry, it will be able to hold a coat of polyurethane just the same as any drying oil would.
Tru-Oil is a similar product that contains oil and varnish, and just like Danish oil, it will be able to hold a coat of polyurethane.
Adding one or more coats of polyurethane to finishes like Danish oil or Tru-Oil will give the final finish an extra layer of protection – just make sure you sand each layer as you apply them, as explained above.
As we’ve seen, polyurethane can be combined with oils, as long as the oil in question is a drying oil.
The key to success is to leave the oil to dry and cure so it presents a hard surface for the polyurethane to bind to – and an important tip is to sand each layer before you apply the next to help each layer adhere more firmly to the layer below.

For those who utilize walking sticks, canes, hiking poles, or other wooden mobility aids, navigating airport security and metal detectors can seem daunting. Can you actually bring your wooden stick on a commercial passenger airplane in the cabin with you? Or will it need to be checked as luggage? Rules and restrictions around items permitted on aircraft have become increasingly stringent, leaving many travelers unsure about transporting their necessary sticks by air.
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This detailed guide will examine all aspects of bringing wooden sticks aboard flights as carry-on items. We’ll outline the types of sticks permitted, important size limitations, what to expect during airport screening processes, policies among different airlines, steps for getting sticks successfully to your gate, considerations for checking them as luggage, and address frequently asked questions from confused travelers. By understanding airline and TSA policies around wooden sticks, you can feel confident knowing how to transport your needed mobility aids stress-free on your next flight.
The first criteria in determining if your wooden stick can come onboard the cabin is its intended purpose and design. In general, the following types of wood-based mobility aids and recreational sticks are permitted as carry-on items:
These are straight wooden canes used for stability and support when walking due to injury, age, or medical conditions affecting balance and mobility. They range from simple, inexpensive wooden sticks to intricately carved and decorated walking canes. Both types are permitted provided length and dimension guidelines are followed.
Collapsible poles constructed of aluminum, carbon fiber, plastic or light wood designed to improve stability and safety when hiking over rough terrain. They are made of materials that are durable yet lightweight. Telescoping mechanisms allow them to collapse to meet airline size requirements.
Taller wooden staffs or sticks used when wading in streams, rivers or other bodies of water to maintain balance. Helpful for serious hikers or anglers. Must be able to collapse or break down to appropriate size limits to be allowed onboard.
Compact, extensible sticks used to mount cameras farther away to take self-portraits or group pictures. They are very popular with travelers and tourists but have specific rules for use inflight.
Rolling walkers or Zimmer frames with four legs and handles used by the elderly or disabled for walking support and balance. Often fold up to fit air travel carry-on size guidelines.
Any staff designed as a legitimate mobility or stability aid is permitted. Just be sure it meets all other requirements and is not overly elaborate or decorative in a way that could raise security concerns.
While functional walking aids are allowed on flights, there are certain types of sticks that would be prohibited under air travel rules:
Scrutinize your stick closely and opt for a standard design focused purely on walking support, not combat or decoration. And be sure no concerning modifications or additions have been made. This gives you the best chance of getting it past airport security checkpoints smoothly.
In addition to usage and design, whether or not your stick is permitted onboard also depends significantly on its physical size and dimensions:
The maximum length for any carry-on item, including mobility aids, is 45 inches or 115 cm in total. This ensures the item can fit inside airport screening equipment and within aircraft cabins. Any stick longer than 45 inches will need to be checked at your departure gate rather than carried onboard. Measure your extended stick carefully beforehand.
While there is no single diameter or width limitation, your stick must still fit comfortably in the airplane’s overhead bins or underseat spaces. Overly wide items that cannot be easily stowed will be gate checked. As a general rule, keep sticks under 2 inches diameter.
Trekking poles, selfie sticks and other aids with foldable or telescoping mechanisms must collapse to the 45 inch length for X-ray machines and cabin storage. Ensure they contract small enough.
Heavier hardwood sticks could present safety issues and many airlines restrict carry-on weights to 17-22 lbs. Anything exceptionally heavy runs the risk of being checked at the gate rather than permitted as carry-on.
Only 1-2 sticks per passenger are typically permitted in cabins. Bringing an excessive number could appear suspicious and prompt confiscation. Stick to what is reasonably needed for mobility.
Meeting size limits and avoiding overpacking numerous sticks gives you the best shot at bringing your aids onboard rather than being forced to check them. Be prepared to check overly large sticks at your departure gate when necessary.
Policies around permitted stick sizes and quantities can vary slightly between airlines. Here are the standard carry-on allowances:
Be sure to check your specific airline’s rules if still uncertain. But the standard carry-on rules apply pretty universally.
The biggest hurdle to clear in getting your stick onboard is clearing airport security successfully. Here’s a rundown of what to expect going through screening:
You will need to place your stick directly on the conveyor belt to pass through the X-ray scanner when you reach the front of the security line. Do not place it in a bin or bag. Removing all items from bags allows the most visibility.
Advise the TSA officer monitoring the X-ray machine that you have a walking stick, cane or mobility pole to be screened so they know to watch for it. This helps them correctly identify it amidst other items.
Expect that you will be directed to additional inspections beyond the X-ray such as a hand-swab of your stick for traces of explosive materials, a request to unroll hiking poles, or a physical bag search. These extra checks are standard protocol for sticks and staves to get cleared.
Part of the inspection may involve you demonstrating your stick’s legitimate use as a mobility or stability aid, such as by walking with a cane. This helps officers confirm its true purpose is permitted.
Sticks may be swabbed with cloths that then go into Explosives Trace Detection scanners looking for any residue of dangerous materials. This is common for many items.
The key is remaining calm and cooperative as officers conduct necessary screening. The extra diligence is for overall flight safety. With patience, you and your stick should be cleared for carry-on once verified not a threat.
While an involved process, clearing security simply takes some additional time and understanding. If you know what to expect going in, the screening should go smoothly.
For elderly passengers or those with disabilities requiring walking sticks or other aids, navigating airport security poses additional challenges:
Proper planning and speaking up on what accommodation you need makes clearing security much less troublesome.
If your stick exceeds 45 inches in length or does not meet carry-on requirements due to size or weight, you will need to check it at your departure gate to be transported in the aircraft’s cargo hold. Here are tips for getting sticks and mobility aids successfully checked:
Bubble wrap, cardboard tubes, or PVC/plastic cases help avoid damage from bumps and jostling of checked baggage handling.
Print out tags marking your stick or aide as “FRAGILE” or “MOBILITY DEVICE” to alert handlers.
Inform gate agents you need to check a walking stick, cane or mobility aide so they properly tag it to return at baggage claim.
Depending on airline rules and your stick’s dimensions, additional oversize baggage fees may apply when forced to check it.
Checking at your departure gate when possible reduces risks of tarmac conveyor damage compared to early check counters.
Do not leave checked sticks sitting unclaimed for long stretches, exposeing them to mishandling or accidental loss.
Take all precautions to minimize damage, but understand checking more fragile mobility aids has inherent risks of loss or breakage. If permitted onboard as carry-on, always take that option first.
When traveling overseas, be aware that rules and scrutiny around mobility aids can vary by airport and country. Some tips for international travels:
Traveling with mobility aids abroad adds further complications. Stay flexible and understand local laws can impact what items are allowed into country.
To maximize your chances of getting walking sticks and canes successfully through airport screenings, go with trusted models known to meet carry-on size limits and pass inspections:
Collapsible travel canes from Travelon and other brands specifically designed for flying. They shrink to under 26 inches stored.
Retract to only 12 inches. Include wrist straps and rubber tips. Great for stability assistance inflight.
Extend up to 53 inches but contract to 26 inches for easy packing and X-rays. Made of aircraft grade aluminum.
Convert from two separate poles to single staff. Easily fits in overhead bins at just 15.5 inches collapsed.
Ideal for seniors with balance/mobility issues. Retracts to under 15 inches stored but rigid up to 39 when fully extended.
Built of durable cork and extends from 25 to 53 inches. Weighs only 8.8 ounces for easy transport.
The more closely a stick resembles common travel-friendly designs versus elaborate staffs or sticks, the better chance it has of passing inspection. Select airport-safe models whenever possible.
With the proper understanding of regulations, necessary walking sticks and aids can be transported by air travel without major hassle. Just allocate enough time for screenings and plan ahead based on your specific stick’s features. Safe travels with your necessary mobility assistance!
The most common size limitations are: 45 inch maximum length, 2 inch diameter maximum, and an overall ability to fit in overhead bins or under seats. Travel-specific collapsible sticks keep these rules in mind.
A doctor’s note is not required by TSA regulations but can be helpful if there are questions about your need for a mobility aid. Having a prescription, letter from a doctor or medical paperwork can help demonstrate legitimate medical necessity.
Generally only 1-2 sticks per passenger are permitted in cabins. Bringing a large collection for an entire group risks items being gate checked or confiscated if seeming excessive for personal needs. Stick to what you individually require for aid.
If a mobility aid is damaged or lost when forced to check it at the departure gate, immediately file a claim report with the airline. Airlines are liable for damage to special assistive devices and will repair, replace or compensate you accordingly.
International airport screening can be more extensive and rules on permitted mobility aids can vary. Research specific airport policies at your destination, allow extra time and have paperwork to explain medical needs. There is risk aids could be confiscated by customs in some countries.
While permitted as carry on, selfie sticks cannot be actively used inflight as they could be perceived as weapons. Stow photographic sticks in your bags once past security and refrain from extending until you’ve reached your destination.
Use thick padding like bubble wrap or cardboard around the stick plus a hard case or pipe if possible when forced to check it. Make sure it’s prominently labeled “fragile” to alert baggage handlers to be gentle. Inspect immediately upon arrival.
No, all carry on items, including mobility aids, must pass through the security X-ray machine. Hand-carrying avoids scanning and is not permitted. But you can request assistance getting it on/off the belt due to disabilities.
For use during moments inflight when you are not relying on your stick, the best place to securely store it is either in the overhead bin to avoid cabin foot traffic or between your legs if in a bulkhead or exit row seat. Never place it in the aisle.
If your stick is damaged at the airport, notify airline staff immediately to file a claim and arrange replacements or compensation. Some airports have mobile kits with loaner sticks you can borrow. Or you may need to purchase an inexpensive replacement from an airport shop in the interim.
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Two Guys Bow Ties makes hand made wooden bow ties out of exotic planks of hardwood. Some of planks that we use are zebrawood, Oak, Maple, Bamboo, and many more. If you would like to see a wooden bow tie made out of a different plank of wood just give a shout and we will do our best to make you one. We make bow ties out of just about any type of wood such as reclaimed flooring, retired basketball courts, old tables, chairs. You name and we can probably make a really awesome looking bow tie out of it.

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We originally saw the wooden bow ties on Shark Tank and were immediately interested. My son wears bow ties regularly and was so excited to receive his first wooden one just in time for homecoming. Prompt delivery and the packaging was wonderful. The bow tie was light weight, comfortable and very stylish. We are very happy with the product and will be purchasing again. Thanks!
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I haven’t officially worn these yet, as they are for my wedding, but just handling them and trying it on, they look great and look like great quality. Plus, they arrived very quickly. I expected them to take much longer. I am very happy with my purchase thus far!
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Melvin is quirky, yet striking at the same time. It’s smooth shape collectively with it’s eye catching black and white houndstooth center piece and Canary wood make it a statement piece that will complete your look. Yes, we found the missing wood bow tie you’ve long been looking for. You’re welcome.